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follow Dark Wood 11 Dark Wood. Gold Alloy 9 Gold Alloy. Green 10 Green. Grey 51 Grey. Light Stone 11 Light Stone. Light Wood 9 Light Wood. Painted Stone 1 Painted Stone.

Painted Wood 9 Painted Wood. Pink 10 Pink. Purple 10 Purple. Red 10 Red. Silver Alloy 10 Silver Alloy. Welsh Slate 10 Welsh Slate. White 54 White. Gloss Gloss. Gloss Sparkle 22 Gloss Sparkle. Matt 71 Matt. What a difference these systems have made. Im no longer throwing out clothes that have gone mouldy in the cupboard and mould no longer grows behind furniture. The only downside to it is my hall feels a bit cooler where the fresh air comes into the house, but overall the difference to our house has been massive!

I had a number of problems with damp in my cottage and i could not work out what was causing it, i had a few companies in to diagnose the problem and they all insisted is was rising damp. Well as some of the issue was mould upstairs i knew this could not be right. I had a dutch firm call Holland Damp Proofing and they carried out a survey that pointed out numerous problems, some they could deal with and other of which they advised me what to do. It took about 18 months to resolve with their product and advice but it has finally gone.

It was nice to have a company around the actually seemed to care and not just take my money. Hi, Thanks for your information, I have found it really useful. We live in a brick built prpoerty circa and have inherited a mish-mash if issues due to the "up-grading" over the years. It has been rendered, centrally heated, cement floored at rear and double glazing.

It aslo had a chemcal damp proof course. We do have damp problems dotted around the house, though I am now less concerned with them having read your article. However one concern remains, we have a large room which at the rear has a sloping roof which has been built with no insulation gap. Do we drop the ceiling and provide that layer or do we leave that as "natural" ventilation and put in a multi-fuel stove to improve our heating issues? Great article, also read the condensation one which was helpful too. Have a semi and having problems with ground floor lounge.

Two external walls, one north facing. When we moved in a few years ago we ere aware of slight damp issue but the previous owner had some dpc work done a few years prior and we decided to look at what the cause may be. There was a ramp breaching the dpc on the north facing wall and we removed this. The property already has cavity wall insulation.

We have no tide mark but sometimes get small amount black mould, only in corner. I ensure room ventilated and always keep door open.

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Heating has also been upgraded. Problem only occurs when weather gets colder and so I feel its condensation? Perhaps as this is a cold room? The underfloor area has been checked and cleared 12 months ago as there was previously a damp earth smell whichhas now gone. Thanks for any advice. I have cavity wall insulation that has failed due to incorrect installation grid format m1.

The water penetrating issue is and has been an ever increasing issue which originates on the property above and has laid empty since Is it more practical to just reinsulate inner walls and forgo cavity or exterior insulation more practical or is there a system where I can issolate my self from above property as far a waterpenetration goes by way of a inner cavity drainage system crude device I know I just want my property to be warm and secure from elements. In I had a specialist company in to check cavity on gable end via camera and confirmed it has failed with large voids of insulation.

But because non communication or consent from property owners above I am held in catch 22 situation I am a disabled veteran and at present my house is not working for me from cold and dampness point of view No governmental or Utilities companies will entertain or discuss options as they insist they have to do both my property and the property above.

I am at the stage where I would pay to do both but no consent from owners. I do not know who or what I can do I have no experience in this field except wishing to get this all done so I can get on with taking care of my condition and my home warm. I am in Central Scotland. Excellent article! Turns out the biggest cause was hanging clothes out to dry, having the central heating on permanently and never ventilating the rooms. We also had a rainwater pipe that was not connected to the roof gutter correctly and so water was running down the face of the wall causing most of the damp.

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It sounds like it may be a bit late for you as your issue, but it certainly explains the key cause well i. Excellent articles, many thanks. My challenge is penetrating damp.

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We have a SW facing wall, the outer surface of which consists of rectangular knapped flint with lime mortar, built around The gutters and roof are in good condition. The mortar is in fair condition, some minor gaps, some of it a bit soft. So, do I a repoint with new lime mortar? All comments and advice much appreciated. The house is around 18c and of solid lime and flint walls. A drying company has just finished and a building company has been appointed by the surveyor appointed by the Insurance company.

The water flowed under the walls; through the building and out the other side in one room. In the adjacent room a concrete floor with bitumen seal on top did not respond in the same way and the moisture went under the floor and also has been taken up like a sponge by the wall above. The Surveyor and the builder want to inject this wall and put a DP cemetitious covering up this wall. They have decided to employ a damp proof specialist to give an opinion.

I am concerned that this might just send any moisture further up the walls and cause problems in the future as it has recently. The room without a DPC does not show signs of saturation in the wall even though the water was flowing freely under the walls. As a lay person; any opinion that I might have does not carry much weight; but I would be interested to know what should be done in this circumstance.

With regards to adding MVHR to a property with condensation, as far as I understand it, that should only be added to a property that has been completely renovated or a highly efficient new build. Listen to what Home Building have to say about damp problems — they talk a lot of sense. If you want to learn more about breathability — you could have a look here — loads of info for free, and no sales talk!

You are absolutely correct in your assumptions about the situation — stick to your guns and insist on a breathable solution — lime plaster, no tanking, no dpc. I have exactly this situation in a row of houses in Chesterfield that had damp problems — insurance coy paid damp proofers to do their dirty work, and put the people back into their houses.

They stayed wet, and had to be stripped out and all the damp proofing removed.

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  • How to Deal with Damp | Homebuilding & Renovating.

Eventually sense prevailed and with lime plaster — and correct diagnosis of the real reasons for the damp, broken drains! Hope this helps! Once the damp has been sorted out, you will need to apply a specially formulated damp sealant, or […]. Damp can damage much more than a buildings appearance. It may lead to the deterioration of plaster […].

Is is easy to breathe in the spores and get ill. While filtering the air as mentioned above can help. It is also important to deal with the recurring issue that is causing the damp in the first place. This will happen especially underground — in somewhere like a basement.

What kind of damp is affecting my home?

This is an excellent article! Thanks I found it very helpful. Many thanks! Log in to Reply Link. Jason Orme. These panels are beautiful.


My bathroom looks like a plush hotel. Love them and my bathroom fitter said that the quality of the panels is ok too. Lovely Quality and look stunning. Over the moon. Difficult to cut lengthways but other than that I'd definitely recommend. End result looks amazing. I used it to decorate my bathroom throughout. Hides a multitude of sins on rough, uneven walls. However they are not very strong and several were broken upon delivery. We just managed to complete the job with what we had but then noticed a crack in one piece right in the middle of the room!

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They are not very hard and scratch easily if you happen to touch them with the unglazed part of a basin or toilet while fitting. The tongue and groove joint is excellent though and you struggle to distinguish a real join from the fake grout line. See All Buying Options. Unlimited One-Day Delivery and more.